By BRIAN SKOLOFF, Associated Press Writer Brian Skoloff, Associated Press Writer – Wed Nov 25, 5:21 pm ET
WEST PALM BEACH, Fla. – A federal probe of tainted Chinese drywall has broadened because a small number of homeowners are reporting that American-made drywall is causing some of the same problems: a sickening, sulfurous stench and corroded pipes and wiring.
"We are not limited in the scope of our investigation to just Chinese drywall," said Scott Wolfson, spokesman for the Consumer Products Safety Commission, which is conducting the largest investigation in its history after thousands of homeowners complained and filed lawsuits.
The vast majority of complaints still center on China-made gypsum board imported during the recent U.S. housing boom, when domestic building materials were in short supply. And the commission's investigation is focused mainly on the imported drywall, Wolfson said.
But sporadic reports are surfacing from owners of homes built with American drywall, and the symptoms they report are similar to those reported with the Chinese drywall: a rotten-egg odor that makes occupants sick, corrosion of copper pipes, and ruined TVs and air conditioners.
Researchers do not know for certain what causes the chemical reactions, but an MIT scientist said the mixture of gypsum and cellulose, combined with the humid atmosphere, releases sulfurous gases, causing corrosion of copper, brass and silver.
"The only solution is removal of the drywall," Thomas Eagar, an MIT professor of materials engineering, wrote in his report.
Several lawsuits have now been filed against American drywall manufacturers, including National Gypsum and Atlanta-based Georgia-Pacific Corp.
Georgia-Pacific declined to comment on the litigation, but spokesman James Malone said the company had heard no such complaints until now.
Attorney Brian Warwick, who is suing Georgia-Pacific in federal court on behalf of two Florida homeowners, said his clients also heard the reports about Chinese drywall and assumed their homes were built with the imported materials.
He believes reports of tainted U.S. building materials will increase as homeowners realize the problem is not just with some Chinese wallboard.
"All the media keeps focusing on is China, China, China," he said. "So how many people are just dismissing their claims because they see they don't have Chinese drywall, and think they don't have tainted drywall?"
Reports of tainted Chinese drywall began to surface last year, and homeowners who bought houses with the imported materials have filed hundreds of lawsuits against builders, suppliers and manufacturers.
In a report issued Monday, the Consumer Products Safety Commission said its studies found a "strong association" between the Chinese drywall and corrosion. The agency also said it found a possible link between health problems and high levels of hydrogen sulfide gas emitted from the wallboard, coupled with formaldehyde, which is commonly found in new houses.
The commission also recently made public a separate 44-home investigation into homeowner complaints, listed on its Web site as a probe into "imported drywall." In fact, 10 of those homes had American drywall.
Still, complaints about U.S. drywall are greatly outnumbered by those regarding Chinese imports.
Of roughly 2,100 complaints received by the commission, about 25 involve homeowners who reported issues with American wallboard, Wolfson said. That is not enough data to make a determination.
A University of Florida study conducted for CBS News tested new samples of U.S. drywall, new samples of the Chinese material and Chinese wallboard from problem homes.
The scientists found that most of the new U.S. samples released sulfur fumes, but at a lower level than the Chinese product taken from homes. However, the study also found that some American product had higher emissions than some of the new Chinese material.
Spurlock, of National Gypsum, said the company was "quite puzzled" with the University of Florida study.
Some experts have suggested that some homes may have been built with a combination of Chinese and American drywall, but since not all of the wallboard imported from China was labeled, it's impossible to tell what's what. The only solution in that case would be for homeowners to tear the house down to the studs and test everything.
Another theory is that bad Chinese wallboard could be contaminating other materials in the house. The federal government is also looking into that.
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Safety During the Holiday Season
The Holiday Season is associated with family get-togethers, great family meals, and beautiful home decorations including lights, candles, and Christmas trees.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, cooking fires are the number one cause of home fires, with Thanksgiving the peak day of the entire year. Nearly all cooking fires start with the ignition of food or cooking oil. Other items normally found in a kitchen help feed the fire - such as cabinets, paper, plastic, and curtains. In 2006, U.S. fire departments responded to 112,500 home structure fires. These fires caused nearly $7 billion in direct property damage. Cooking fires accounted for 40% of all reported home fires. Twelve percent of the fires occurred when something flammable was left too close to cooking equipment.
The CDC and the National Fire Protection Association recommend:
• Stay in the kitchen when cooking. If you must leave the kitchen for any reason, turn off the stovetop.
• If you are simmering, baking, roasting, or boiling food, check it regularly. Remain in the home while food is cooking, and use a timer to remind you to check the food.
• Wear short, close fitting sleeves when cooking. Loose clothing can easily catch fire.
• Never use water to extinguish a cooking fire.
• If oil starts to boil, remove it from the heat source. Simply lowering the heat will not reduce the temperature fast enough.
• Be careful not to overfill pots with oil. You need room in the pan to add food. Overflowing oil can easily catch fire.
• If oil catches fire, use an oven mitt to carefully slide a lid over the pan to smother the fire.
• If oil has overflowed and is burning, get everyone out of the house and call the fire department from outside.
• Keep towels, bags, plastic, and food packaging away from flame and heat.
• Never cook when under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or medication.
• Install smoke alarms if a home does not have them.
• Test smoke alarms monthly and replace batteries as needed.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, Christmas trees (both real and artificial) are the first items ignited in an estimated 300 reported home structure fires per year.
The U.S. Fire Administration offers the following fire safety tips for homeowners:
• When decorating, be sure to use only lights rated for indoor use.
• Replace any lights that have worn, frayed, or broken cords.
• Always unplug Christmas tree lights before leaving the home or going to bed.
• Keep live trees moist by watering daily. Do not purchase a tree that is dry.
• Make sure the tree is at least three feet away from any heat source.
• Safely dispose of the tree when it begins dropping needles - dried out trees are highly flammable.
• Make sure artificial trees are fire retardant.
• Place the tree near an outlet to avoid running long extension cords.
• Do not burn a Christmas tree in a fireplace. They are practically explosive.
Candles around the home often invoke a warm holiday spirit, but they are a significant fire hazard - and a leading cause of residential fires! If you choose to set the mood with candles, use extreme caution.
The National Candle Association recommends:
• Always keep a burning candle within sight - never leave it unattended.
• Never burn a candle near anything that can catch fire.
• Always use a candleholder specifically designed for candles and place on a stable, heat-resistant surface.
• Make sure a candle is completely extinguished and is no longer glowing before leaving it.
• Never use a candle as a night light.
In the event a fire should occur, it is important for property owners to know what to do, what not to do, and who to contact once it is extinguished. PuroClean, known as The Paramedics of Property Damage™, is a professional mitigation company specializing in property remediation after a home or commercial structure is damaged by fire and smoke. Fire, along with the resulting smoke and soot, can rapidly harm household items - even after the fire has been extinguished. It is imperative to seek help immediately from a professional restoration company such as PuroClean to prevent further damage.
Regardless of the circumstances - dealing with fire/smoke damage, water damage, or mold remediation - call PuroClean Property Restoration Specialists at 312-453-1500. For all property damage situations, we are standing by. We will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. We have well-trained professional technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, cooking fires are the number one cause of home fires, with Thanksgiving the peak day of the entire year. Nearly all cooking fires start with the ignition of food or cooking oil. Other items normally found in a kitchen help feed the fire - such as cabinets, paper, plastic, and curtains. In 2006, U.S. fire departments responded to 112,500 home structure fires. These fires caused nearly $7 billion in direct property damage. Cooking fires accounted for 40% of all reported home fires. Twelve percent of the fires occurred when something flammable was left too close to cooking equipment.
The CDC and the National Fire Protection Association recommend:
• Stay in the kitchen when cooking. If you must leave the kitchen for any reason, turn off the stovetop.
• If you are simmering, baking, roasting, or boiling food, check it regularly. Remain in the home while food is cooking, and use a timer to remind you to check the food.
• Wear short, close fitting sleeves when cooking. Loose clothing can easily catch fire.
• Never use water to extinguish a cooking fire.
• If oil starts to boil, remove it from the heat source. Simply lowering the heat will not reduce the temperature fast enough.
• Be careful not to overfill pots with oil. You need room in the pan to add food. Overflowing oil can easily catch fire.
• If oil catches fire, use an oven mitt to carefully slide a lid over the pan to smother the fire.
• If oil has overflowed and is burning, get everyone out of the house and call the fire department from outside.
• Keep towels, bags, plastic, and food packaging away from flame and heat.
• Never cook when under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or medication.
• Install smoke alarms if a home does not have them.
• Test smoke alarms monthly and replace batteries as needed.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, Christmas trees (both real and artificial) are the first items ignited in an estimated 300 reported home structure fires per year.
The U.S. Fire Administration offers the following fire safety tips for homeowners:
• When decorating, be sure to use only lights rated for indoor use.
• Replace any lights that have worn, frayed, or broken cords.
• Always unplug Christmas tree lights before leaving the home or going to bed.
• Keep live trees moist by watering daily. Do not purchase a tree that is dry.
• Make sure the tree is at least three feet away from any heat source.
• Safely dispose of the tree when it begins dropping needles - dried out trees are highly flammable.
• Make sure artificial trees are fire retardant.
• Place the tree near an outlet to avoid running long extension cords.
• Do not burn a Christmas tree in a fireplace. They are practically explosive.
Candles around the home often invoke a warm holiday spirit, but they are a significant fire hazard - and a leading cause of residential fires! If you choose to set the mood with candles, use extreme caution.
The National Candle Association recommends:
• Always keep a burning candle within sight - never leave it unattended.
• Never burn a candle near anything that can catch fire.
• Always use a candleholder specifically designed for candles and place on a stable, heat-resistant surface.
• Make sure a candle is completely extinguished and is no longer glowing before leaving it.
• Never use a candle as a night light.
In the event a fire should occur, it is important for property owners to know what to do, what not to do, and who to contact once it is extinguished. PuroClean, known as The Paramedics of Property Damage™, is a professional mitigation company specializing in property remediation after a home or commercial structure is damaged by fire and smoke. Fire, along with the resulting smoke and soot, can rapidly harm household items - even after the fire has been extinguished. It is imperative to seek help immediately from a professional restoration company such as PuroClean to prevent further damage.
Regardless of the circumstances - dealing with fire/smoke damage, water damage, or mold remediation - call PuroClean Property Restoration Specialists at 312-453-1500. For all property damage situations, we are standing by. We will mitigate the loss to prevent further damage and will then provide restoration services to return the property to a pre-loss condition as quickly as possible. We have well-trained professional technicians who provide the latest state-of-the-science services to all property damaged from water, fire, smoke, mold, and other disasters.
Sunday, November 8, 2009
Freezing Weather and Water Damage in Chicago
Property damage in Chicago caused by freezing weather occurs more frequently and creates greater damage than is commonly thought. When water freezes, its volume increases by approximately eleven percent (11%), and this expansion exerts tremendous force. This force is sufficient to break concrete or even steel! When even a small amount of water enters a structure and freezes, the resulting expansion further damages and weakens the structure, allowing more water to enter. The damage cycle continues until the source problem (the initial entry point) is repaired.
A number of variables, acting separately or in combination, contribute to freeze damage. A drop in temperature, the type of building construction, the amount and quality of insulation, the direction and force of wind, and other weather-related conditions are all contributing factors.
An occupied building is not completely free from freeze-related damages, even when it is constructed to withstand freezing weather and is properly maintained and heated. However, a significant amount of freeze damage occurs when a building is not occupied, especially if the owners are gone for an extended period and the heating system is not on during the freezing weather. In northern climates, many people go south for the winter. They “winterize” their homes before they leave by draining the plumbing system and adding antifreeze to plumbing fixtures. Frequently, this is not completely effective, and the owners find freeze damage when they return.
Draining the plumbing system needs to be thorough and complete. If a water line sags or bows, it can result in a low spot that is nearly impossible to completely drain. To be most effective, draining the water lines should be accompanied by the use of compressed air to blow out the lines. If this is not done, some amount of water will remain and will freeze in the low points of the lines, which may cause the pipes to break. The damage is then discovered only after the water is turned back on and escapes from that break. Virtually all plumbing lines are placed inside of walls and are not visible. As a result, a freeze-caused leak is only discovered when water damage to floors, carpet, walls, or ceilings becomes visible.
Winter wind, snow, and ice storms frequently damage electric power lines and equipment, resulting in interruptions of electric power. Most heating systems depend on electricity, and when the power goes off, so does the heat. In severe cold weather, this can result in extensive freeze damage before power is restored.
Buildings that are poorly designed and do not withstand weather well can contribute to their own damage. Many older buildings have inferior insulation or are not insulated at all.
Back then, to avoid freezing, plumbing lines were commonly run along the inside of interior walls and ceilings, rather than enclosed within the walls. In some cases, many lines simply ran inside of un-insulated walls. During renovation of some old homes, blown or foam insulation has been added into wall cavities between interior and exterior wall surfaces and between each stud. This process, many times, served to insulate heat away from pipes that were located inside of walls and adjacent to the exterior wall surfaces or in attics, actually making them more susceptible to freezing.
The type and age of the plumbing system is also a factor. Rust or corrosion weakens pipes, making leaks easier to occur. When freeze expansion occurs, such pipes will often split open. As thawing begins, or when the water is turned back on, this situation will result in water damage.
There is also a form of direct damage that can occur from extreme cold, even though no moisture is present. Most building materials and personal property are unaffected by cold alone, provided they are dry. Extremely cold temperatures can damage some sensitive computers and other electronic components. In northern climates, temperatures commonly fall below zero and occasionally dip to minus 40 to even 50 degrees. The contraction associated with those extremely low temperatures can congeal Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) and fuel oil, causing heating system failure.
Regardless of the circumstances – if water damage occurs from freezing or other sources, it is imperative that you first stop the source of the water and then the water that has entered the home. Following the highest standards in the industry, PuroClean provides peace-of-mind through its own form of “CPR” – Controlling, Protecting, and Restoring damaged property and contents.
A number of variables, acting separately or in combination, contribute to freeze damage. A drop in temperature, the type of building construction, the amount and quality of insulation, the direction and force of wind, and other weather-related conditions are all contributing factors.
An occupied building is not completely free from freeze-related damages, even when it is constructed to withstand freezing weather and is properly maintained and heated. However, a significant amount of freeze damage occurs when a building is not occupied, especially if the owners are gone for an extended period and the heating system is not on during the freezing weather. In northern climates, many people go south for the winter. They “winterize” their homes before they leave by draining the plumbing system and adding antifreeze to plumbing fixtures. Frequently, this is not completely effective, and the owners find freeze damage when they return.
Draining the plumbing system needs to be thorough and complete. If a water line sags or bows, it can result in a low spot that is nearly impossible to completely drain. To be most effective, draining the water lines should be accompanied by the use of compressed air to blow out the lines. If this is not done, some amount of water will remain and will freeze in the low points of the lines, which may cause the pipes to break. The damage is then discovered only after the water is turned back on and escapes from that break. Virtually all plumbing lines are placed inside of walls and are not visible. As a result, a freeze-caused leak is only discovered when water damage to floors, carpet, walls, or ceilings becomes visible.
Winter wind, snow, and ice storms frequently damage electric power lines and equipment, resulting in interruptions of electric power. Most heating systems depend on electricity, and when the power goes off, so does the heat. In severe cold weather, this can result in extensive freeze damage before power is restored.
Buildings that are poorly designed and do not withstand weather well can contribute to their own damage. Many older buildings have inferior insulation or are not insulated at all.
Back then, to avoid freezing, plumbing lines were commonly run along the inside of interior walls and ceilings, rather than enclosed within the walls. In some cases, many lines simply ran inside of un-insulated walls. During renovation of some old homes, blown or foam insulation has been added into wall cavities between interior and exterior wall surfaces and between each stud. This process, many times, served to insulate heat away from pipes that were located inside of walls and adjacent to the exterior wall surfaces or in attics, actually making them more susceptible to freezing.
The type and age of the plumbing system is also a factor. Rust or corrosion weakens pipes, making leaks easier to occur. When freeze expansion occurs, such pipes will often split open. As thawing begins, or when the water is turned back on, this situation will result in water damage.
There is also a form of direct damage that can occur from extreme cold, even though no moisture is present. Most building materials and personal property are unaffected by cold alone, provided they are dry. Extremely cold temperatures can damage some sensitive computers and other electronic components. In northern climates, temperatures commonly fall below zero and occasionally dip to minus 40 to even 50 degrees. The contraction associated with those extremely low temperatures can congeal Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) and fuel oil, causing heating system failure.
Regardless of the circumstances – if water damage occurs from freezing or other sources, it is imperative that you first stop the source of the water and then the water that has entered the home. Following the highest standards in the industry, PuroClean provides peace-of-mind through its own form of “CPR” – Controlling, Protecting, and Restoring damaged property and contents.
Monday, November 2, 2009
Chlorine Bleach and Mold Clean Up - Let's Set the Record Straight!!!
Reprinted with permission from our friends at Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC
The Myth.
A myth exists concerning the use and “effectiveness” of chlorine bleach (sodium hypochorite) in the remediation of a mold problem. Mold remediation involves the removal and or clean up and restoration of mold contaminated building materials.
Opposing Views and Confusion.
Chlorine bleach, commonly referred to as laundry bleach, is generally perceived to be an “accepted and answer-all” biocide to abate mold in the remediation processes. Well-intentioned recommendations of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and other federal, state and local agencies are perpetuating that belief. And confusing the issue is one federal agency, the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA), taking an opposing point of view by NOT recommending the use of chlorine bleach as a routine practice in mold remediation.
Does Bleach Really Kill Mold?
Will chlorine bleach kill mold or not—yes or no? The answer is yes, but with a caveat. That answer comes from The Clorox Company, Oakland CA, manufacturer and distributor of Ultra Clorox® Regular Bleach. The company’s correspondence to Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC stated that their Tech Center studies supported by independent laboratories show that “…3/4 cup of Clorox liquid bleach per gallon of water will be effective on hard, non-porous surfaces against… Aspergillus niger and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete’s Foot Fungus)”. Whether or not chlorine bleach kills other molds and fungi, the company did not say. The words “hard, non-porous” surfaces” present the caveat. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s Mold Remediation/ Clean Up Methods guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
Why Chlorine Bleach is NOT Recommended for Mold Remediation!
Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is corrosive and that fact is stated on the product label. Yet the properties of chlorine bleach prevent it from “soaking into” wood-based building materials to get at the deeply embedded mycilia (roots) of mold. The object to killing mold is to kill its “roots”. Reputable mold remediation contractors use appropriate products that effectively disinfect salvageable mold infected wood products. Beware of any mold inspector or mold remediation company that recommends or uses chlorine bleach for mold clean up on wood-based building materials.
Chlorine Bleach Is Active Ingredient in New Mold & Mildew Products.
The appearance of new mold and mildew household products on store shelves is on the rise. Most are dilute solutions of laundry bleach. The labels on these mold and mildew products state that they are for use on (again) hard, non-porous surfaces and not for wood-based materials. Instructions where not to apply the products are varied. A few examples where the branded products should not be applied include wood or painted surfaces, aluminum products, metal (including stainless steel), faucets, marble, natural stone, and, of course, carpeting, fabrics and paper. One commercial mold and mildew stain remover even specifically states it should not be applied to porcelain or metal without immediate rinsing with water and that the product isn’t recommended for use on formica or vinyl.
Caveat Emptor!
Before purchasing a mold and mildew product, read and fully understand the advertised purpose of that product — and correctly follow the use instructions of a purchased product. The labeling claims on these new products can be confusing — some say their product is a mold and mildew remover while another says their product is a mildew stain remover and yet others make similar 'ambiguous' claims. Make double sure that the product satisfies your intended need on the surface to which it is to be applied. If your intention is to kill mold, make sure the product does exactly that and follow the directions for usage. Consumers may find that mixing their own diluted bleach solution will achieve the same results as any of the new mold and mildew products — keep in mind that the use of chlorine bleach is not for use on mold infected wood products including wall board, ceiling tiles, wall studs, fabric, paper products, etc.
Conclusion.
Laundry bleach is not an effective mold killing agent for wood-based building materials and NOT EFFECTIVE in the mold remediation process. OSHA is the first federal agency to announce a departure from the use of chlorine bleach in mold remediation. In time, other federal agencies are expected to follow OSHA’s lead. The public should be aware, however, that a chlorine bleach solution IS an effective sanitizing product that kills mold on hard surfaces and neutralizes indoor mold allergens that trigger allergies.
Using bleach can cause serious health problems.
The fumes are very caustic and great care must be taken not to breathe in too much. It is also very damaging to clothing and carpeting, the human body, and the environment.
THE MOST EFFECTIVE METHOD TO GET RID OF VISIBLE MOLD IS BY REMOVING THE AFFECTED AREA.
The Myth.
A myth exists concerning the use and “effectiveness” of chlorine bleach (sodium hypochorite) in the remediation of a mold problem. Mold remediation involves the removal and or clean up and restoration of mold contaminated building materials.
Opposing Views and Confusion.
Chlorine bleach, commonly referred to as laundry bleach, is generally perceived to be an “accepted and answer-all” biocide to abate mold in the remediation processes. Well-intentioned recommendations of the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and other federal, state and local agencies are perpetuating that belief. And confusing the issue is one federal agency, the Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA), taking an opposing point of view by NOT recommending the use of chlorine bleach as a routine practice in mold remediation.
Does Bleach Really Kill Mold?
Will chlorine bleach kill mold or not—yes or no? The answer is yes, but with a caveat. That answer comes from The Clorox Company, Oakland CA, manufacturer and distributor of Ultra Clorox® Regular Bleach. The company’s correspondence to Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC stated that their Tech Center studies supported by independent laboratories show that “…3/4 cup of Clorox liquid bleach per gallon of water will be effective on hard, non-porous surfaces against… Aspergillus niger and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete’s Foot Fungus)”. Whether or not chlorine bleach kills other molds and fungi, the company did not say. The words “hard, non-porous” surfaces” present the caveat. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s Mold Remediation/ Clean Up Methods guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
Why Chlorine Bleach is NOT Recommended for Mold Remediation!
Chlorine bleach (sodium hypochlorite) is corrosive and that fact is stated on the product label. Yet the properties of chlorine bleach prevent it from “soaking into” wood-based building materials to get at the deeply embedded mycilia (roots) of mold. The object to killing mold is to kill its “roots”. Reputable mold remediation contractors use appropriate products that effectively disinfect salvageable mold infected wood products. Beware of any mold inspector or mold remediation company that recommends or uses chlorine bleach for mold clean up on wood-based building materials.
Chlorine Bleach Is Active Ingredient in New Mold & Mildew Products.
The appearance of new mold and mildew household products on store shelves is on the rise. Most are dilute solutions of laundry bleach. The labels on these mold and mildew products state that they are for use on (again) hard, non-porous surfaces and not for wood-based materials. Instructions where not to apply the products are varied. A few examples where the branded products should not be applied include wood or painted surfaces, aluminum products, metal (including stainless steel), faucets, marble, natural stone, and, of course, carpeting, fabrics and paper. One commercial mold and mildew stain remover even specifically states it should not be applied to porcelain or metal without immediate rinsing with water and that the product isn’t recommended for use on formica or vinyl.
Caveat Emptor!
Before purchasing a mold and mildew product, read and fully understand the advertised purpose of that product — and correctly follow the use instructions of a purchased product. The labeling claims on these new products can be confusing — some say their product is a mold and mildew remover while another says their product is a mildew stain remover and yet others make similar 'ambiguous' claims. Make double sure that the product satisfies your intended need on the surface to which it is to be applied. If your intention is to kill mold, make sure the product does exactly that and follow the directions for usage. Consumers may find that mixing their own diluted bleach solution will achieve the same results as any of the new mold and mildew products — keep in mind that the use of chlorine bleach is not for use on mold infected wood products including wall board, ceiling tiles, wall studs, fabric, paper products, etc.
Conclusion.
Laundry bleach is not an effective mold killing agent for wood-based building materials and NOT EFFECTIVE in the mold remediation process. OSHA is the first federal agency to announce a departure from the use of chlorine bleach in mold remediation. In time, other federal agencies are expected to follow OSHA’s lead. The public should be aware, however, that a chlorine bleach solution IS an effective sanitizing product that kills mold on hard surfaces and neutralizes indoor mold allergens that trigger allergies.
Using bleach can cause serious health problems.
The fumes are very caustic and great care must be taken not to breathe in too much. It is also very damaging to clothing and carpeting, the human body, and the environment.
THE MOST EFFECTIVE METHOD TO GET RID OF VISIBLE MOLD IS BY REMOVING THE AFFECTED AREA.
411: Safety During the Holiday Season
The Holiday Season is associated with family get-togethers, great family meals, and beautiful home decorations including lights, candles, and Christmas trees.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, cooking fires are the number one cause of home fires, with Thanksgiving the peak day of the entire year. Nearly all cooking fires start with the ignition of food or cooking oil. Other items normally found in a kitchen help feed the fire - such as cabinets, paper, plastic, and curtains. In 2008, U.S. fire departments responded to 112,500 home structure fires. These fires caused nearly $7 billion in direct property damage. Cooking fires accounted for 40% of all reported home fires. Twelve percent of the fires occurred when something flammable was left too close to cooking equipment.
The CDC and the National Fire Protection Association recommend:
• Stay in the kitchen when cooking. If you must leave the kitchen for any reason, turn off the stovetop.
• If you are simmering, baking, roasting, or boiling food, check it regularly. Remain in the home while food is cooking, and use a timer to remind you to check the food.
• Wear short, close fitting sleeves when cooking. Loose clothing can easily catch fire.
• Never use water to extinguish a cooking fire.
• If oil starts to boil, remove it from the heat source. Simply lowering the heat will not reduce the temperature fast enough.
• Be careful not to overfill pots with oil. You need room in the pan to add food. Overflowing oil can easily catch fire.
• If oil catches fire, use an oven mitt to carefully slide a lid over the pan to smother the fire.
• If oil has overflowed and is burning, get everyone out of the house and call the fire department from outside.
• Keep towels, bags, plastic, and food packaging away from flame and heat.
• Never cook when under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or medication.
• Install smoke alarms if a home does not have them.
• Test smoke alarms monthly and replace batteries as needed.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, Christmas trees (both real and artificial) are the first items ignited in an estimated 300 reported home structure fires per year.
The U.S. Fire Administration offers the following fire safety tips for homeowners:
• When decorating, be sure to use only lights rated for indoor use.
• Replace any lights that have worn, frayed, or broken cords.
• Always unplug Christmas tree lights before leaving the home or going to bed.
• Keep live trees moist by watering daily. Do not purchase a tree that is dry.
• Make sure the tree is at least three feet away from any heat source.
• Safely dispose of the tree when it begins dropping needles - dried out trees are highly flammable.
• Make sure artificial trees are fire retardant.
• Place the tree near an outlet to avoid running long extension cords.
• Do not burn a Christmas tree in a fireplace. They are practically explosive.
Candles around the home often invoke a warm holiday spirit, but they are a significant fire hazard - and a leading cause of residential fires! If you choose to set the mood with candles, use extreme caution.
The National Candle Association recommends:
• Always keep a burning candle within sight - never leave it unattended.
• Never burn a candle near anything that can catch fire.
• Always use a candleholder specifically designed for candles and place on a stable, heat-resistant surface.
• Make sure a candle is completely extinguished and is no longer glowing before leaving it.
• Never use a candle as a night light.
In the event a fire should occur, it is important for property owners to know what to do, what not to do, and who to contact once it is extinguished. Fire, along with the resulting smoke and soot, can rapidly harm household items - even after the fire has been extinguished. It is imperative to seek help immediately from a professional restoration company to prevent further damage.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, cooking fires are the number one cause of home fires, with Thanksgiving the peak day of the entire year. Nearly all cooking fires start with the ignition of food or cooking oil. Other items normally found in a kitchen help feed the fire - such as cabinets, paper, plastic, and curtains. In 2008, U.S. fire departments responded to 112,500 home structure fires. These fires caused nearly $7 billion in direct property damage. Cooking fires accounted for 40% of all reported home fires. Twelve percent of the fires occurred when something flammable was left too close to cooking equipment.
The CDC and the National Fire Protection Association recommend:
• Stay in the kitchen when cooking. If you must leave the kitchen for any reason, turn off the stovetop.
• If you are simmering, baking, roasting, or boiling food, check it regularly. Remain in the home while food is cooking, and use a timer to remind you to check the food.
• Wear short, close fitting sleeves when cooking. Loose clothing can easily catch fire.
• Never use water to extinguish a cooking fire.
• If oil starts to boil, remove it from the heat source. Simply lowering the heat will not reduce the temperature fast enough.
• Be careful not to overfill pots with oil. You need room in the pan to add food. Overflowing oil can easily catch fire.
• If oil catches fire, use an oven mitt to carefully slide a lid over the pan to smother the fire.
• If oil has overflowed and is burning, get everyone out of the house and call the fire department from outside.
• Keep towels, bags, plastic, and food packaging away from flame and heat.
• Never cook when under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or medication.
• Install smoke alarms if a home does not have them.
• Test smoke alarms monthly and replace batteries as needed.
According to the National Fire Protection Association, Christmas trees (both real and artificial) are the first items ignited in an estimated 300 reported home structure fires per year.
The U.S. Fire Administration offers the following fire safety tips for homeowners:
• When decorating, be sure to use only lights rated for indoor use.
• Replace any lights that have worn, frayed, or broken cords.
• Always unplug Christmas tree lights before leaving the home or going to bed.
• Keep live trees moist by watering daily. Do not purchase a tree that is dry.
• Make sure the tree is at least three feet away from any heat source.
• Safely dispose of the tree when it begins dropping needles - dried out trees are highly flammable.
• Make sure artificial trees are fire retardant.
• Place the tree near an outlet to avoid running long extension cords.
• Do not burn a Christmas tree in a fireplace. They are practically explosive.
Candles around the home often invoke a warm holiday spirit, but they are a significant fire hazard - and a leading cause of residential fires! If you choose to set the mood with candles, use extreme caution.
The National Candle Association recommends:
• Always keep a burning candle within sight - never leave it unattended.
• Never burn a candle near anything that can catch fire.
• Always use a candleholder specifically designed for candles and place on a stable, heat-resistant surface.
• Make sure a candle is completely extinguished and is no longer glowing before leaving it.
• Never use a candle as a night light.
In the event a fire should occur, it is important for property owners to know what to do, what not to do, and who to contact once it is extinguished. Fire, along with the resulting smoke and soot, can rapidly harm household items - even after the fire has been extinguished. It is imperative to seek help immediately from a professional restoration company to prevent further damage.
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